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  The Most Beautiful Walk in the World

  A Pedestrian in Paris

  John Baxter

  Dedication

  FOR

  Marie-Dominique

  AND

  Louise,

  WORTH WALKING FOR.

  Epigraph

  We cannot tarry here,

  We must march my darlings

  —WALT WHITMAN, PIONEERS, O PIONEERS

  Contents

  Dedication

  Epigraph

  Map

  Chapter 1 - To Walk the Walk

  Chapter 2 - ‘Walking Backwards for Christmas’

  Chapter 3 - What a Man’s Got to Do

  Chapter 4 - Heat

  Chapter 5 - Two Geese a-Roasting

  Chapter 6 - The Hollywood Moment

  Chapter 7 - Hemingway’s Shoes

  Chapter 8 - The Importance of Being Ernest

  Chapter 9 - The Boulevardier

  Chapter 10 - The Murderer’s Garden

  Chapter 11 - Going Walkabout

  Chapter 12 - The Music of Walking

  Chapter 13 - Power Walks

  Chapter 14 - A Proposition at Les Editeurs

  Chapter 15 - The Freedom of the City

  Chapter 16 - The Man Who Knew Too Much

  Chapter 17 - The Opium Trail

  Chapter 18 - Postcards from Paris

  Chapter 19 - The Ground Beneath Our Feet

  Chapter 20 - Looking for Matisse

  Chapter 21 - Fish Story

  Chapter 22 - The Great La Coupole Roundup

  Chapter 23 - Liver Lover

  Chapter 24 - Paris When It Sizzled

  Chapter 25 - A Walk in the Earth

  Chapter 26 - Heaven and Hell

  Chapter 27 - Blue Hour Blues

  Chapter 28 - The Last of Montparnasse

  Chapter 29 - The Fuzz on the Peach

  Chapter 30 - To Market

  Chapter 31 - The Boulevard of Crime

  Chapter 32 - The Gates of Night

  Chapter 33 - A Little Place in the Nineteenth

  Chapter 34 - A Walk in Time

  Chapter 35 - Aussie in the Métro

  Chapter 36 - A Touch of Strange

  Chapter 37 - The Most Beautiful Walk in the World

  Appendix - Paris, Mode d’Emploi (Paris, A User’s Guide)

  About the Author

  Also by John Baxter

  Credits

  An Excerpt from The Perfect Meal

  First Catch Your Pansy

  Copyright

  Copyright

  About the Publisher

  Map

  CAFÉS AND RESTAURANTS

  1. La Coupole

  2. La Rotonde

  3. Le Dôme

  4. Les Deux Magots

  5. Café Flore

  6. Brasserie Lipp

  7. The Ritz Hotel

  8. Dingo Bar (now Auberge de Venise)

  9. Harry’s Bar

  10. Les Editeurs

  11. Closerie des Lilas

  12. Le Balzar

  13. Au Lapin Agile

  14. La Fée Verte

  MARKETS

  15. Porte de Vanves (antiques)

  16. Rue Brancion (old books)

  17. Porte de Clignancourt (antiques)

  18. Marché d’Aligre (food)

  ART AND PAINTING

  19. Rue Mazarine

  20. The Louvre

  21. Le Grand Palais

  22. Centre Pompidou

  SIGHTS

  23. The Catacombs

  24. The Passages (arcades)

  25. Luxembourg Gardens

  26. The Opera Garnier

  27. La Santé Prison

  28. Sacré-Coeur Cathedral

  29. Notre Dame Cathedral

  30. Cour de Commerce St. Andre

  31. Place de la Bastille

  LITERARY SITES

  32. Ernest Hemingway’s apartment (74 Rue Cardinal Lemoine)

  33. Ernest Hemingway’s apartment (#6 Rue Ferou)

  34. Gertrude Stein’s apartment

  35. Rue de l’Odéon (Sylvia Beach’s apartment)

  36. Old Shakespeare and Company bookshop

  37. New Shakespeare and Company bookshop

  38. The Panthéon (burial site of Voltaire, Rousseau, and Zola)

  Chapter 1

  To Walk the Walk

  Nobody has yet found a better way to travel slowly than to walk. It requires two legs; nothing more. Want to go faster? Don’t bother walking—roll, slide or fly: don’t walk. But once you are walking, it’s not performance that counts but the intensity of the sky, the splendour of the landscape. Walking is not a sport.

  CHARLES GROS, Walking: A Philosophy

  Every day, heading down rue de l’Odéon toward Café Danton on the corner of boulevard Saint-Germain or toward the market on rue Buci, I pass them.

  The walkers.

  Not all are walking, however. They’d like to be—but their stroll around Paris isn’t working out as they hoped.

  Uncertain, they loiter at the foot of our street, at the corner of boulevard Saint-Germain, one of the busiest on this side of the Seine. Couples, usually, they’re dressed in the seasonal variation of what is almost a uniform—beige raincoat or jacket, cotton or corduroy pants, and sensible shoes. Huddling over a folded map or guidebook, they look up and around every few seconds, hopeful that the street signs and architecture will have transformed themselves into something more like Brooklyn or Brentwood or Birmingham.

  Sometimes they appear in groups. We see a lot of these because our street, rue de l’Odéon, is to literature what Yankee Stadium is to baseball and Lord’s is to cricket. At no. 12, Sylvia Beach ran Shakespeare and Company, the English-language bookshop that published James Joyce’s Ulysses. Sylvia and her companion, Adrienne Monnier, lived in our building at no. 18. Joyce visited them there often. So did Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas, and of course Ernest Hemingway.

  Most days, when I step out of the building, a group stands on the opposite sidewalk while someone lectures them in any one of a dozen languages about the history of our street. They regard me with curiosity, even respect. But often I feel like a fraud. Instead of thinking lofty literary thoughts, I’m compiling my shopping list. Eggs, onions, a baguette. . .

  After that, they set off again, a straggling column, following the guide’s flag or, in bad weather, her umbrella. Few take their eyes off this object. They’ve learned that Paris for the pedestrian is both fascinating and deceptive. What if they did pause—to browse that basket of books outside une librairie, or take a closer look at a dress in the window of a boutique? The tour might turn a corner, disappearing from sight, casting them adrift in this baffling town. They would be forced to buttonhole a passing Parisian and stammer, “Excusez-moi, monsieur, mais . . . parlez-vous Anglais?” Or worse, surrender to the mysteries of le métro. A few lost souls are always hovering at the entrance to the Odéon station. Staring up at the green serpentine art nouveau curlicues of Hector Guimard’s cast-iron archway, they may read Metropolitain but they see what Dante saw over the gate to hell: “Abandon hope all ye who enter here.”

  What most frustrates the visitor walking in Paris is the presence all around of others who share none of their hesitation. Confident, casual, the locals breeze past, as careless as birds in a tree. For them, the métro holds no terrors. They know exactly when to pause as a bus roars by on what appears to be the wrong side of the road. They make abrupt turns into alleys, at the foot of which one glimpses the most interesting-looking little market. . .

  How do they know?

  Well, this is their habitat, their quartier, as familiar to them as their own living room. Because that’s how Parisians regard the city—as an
extension of their homes. The concept of public space doesn’t exist here. People don’t step out of their front door into their car, then drive across town to the office or some air-conditioned mall. No Parisian drives around Paris. A few cycle. Others take the métro or a bus, but most walk. Paris belongs to its piétons—the pedestrians. One goes naturally à pied—on foot. And it’s only on foot that you discover its richness and variety. As another out-of-town Paris lover, the writer Edmund White, says in his elegant little book The Flaneur, “Paris is a world meant to be seen by the walker alone, for only the pace of strolling can take in all the rich (if muted) detail.”

  Another writer, Adam Gopnik, calls a stroll down rue de Seine, just around the corner from our apartment, “the most beautiful walk in the world.” And so it is—for him. But every Parisian, and everyone who comes to know Paris, discovers his or her own “most beautiful walk.” A walk is not a parade or a race. It’s a succession of instants, any one of which can illuminate a lifetime. What about the glance, the scent, the glimpse, the way the light just falls . . . the “beautiful” part ? No tour guide or guidebook tells you that. Prepared itineraries remind me of those PHOTO POINT signs at Disneyland. Yes, that angle gives you an attractive picture. But why not just buy a postcard?

  Nor is there a single Paris. The city exists as a blank page on which each person scribbles what the French call a griffe—literally “a claw” but more precisely a signature; a choice of favorite cafés, shops, parks, and the routes that link them. “I discovered that Paris did not exist,” wrote Colette on her arrival from the country. “It was no more than a cluster of provinces held together by the most tenuous of threads. There was nothing to prevent me from reconstructing my own province or any other my imagination should choose to fix in outline.”

  In a way that isn’t possible with London or New York or Berlin, one can speak of “Colette’s Paris” or “Hemingway’s Paris” or “Scott Fitzgerald’s Paris,” or your own Paris. We all go through a similar process: finding the only café, the perfect park, the loveliest view, the most beautiful walk.

  Nobody can say precisely which they will be. But maybe my experiences of a year of walking in Paris will suggest how and where you might start to find the succession of arrivals and departures that leaves one with memories that can never be erased, the moments one recounts all one’s life, prefaced by the words, “I remember . . . once . . . in Paris . . .”

  Walk with me.

  Chapter 2

  ‘Walking Backwards for Christmas’

  I’m walking backwards for Christmas,

  Across the Irish Sea,

  I’m walking backwards for Christmas,

  It’s the only thing for me.

  I’ve tried walking sideways,

  And walking to the front,

  But people just look at me,

  And say it’s a publicity stunt.

  SPIKE MILLIGAN, 1956

  My first memorable walk of the year came both early and without notice. To be precise, at 3:00 p.m. on Christmas Eve.

  Paris under snow

  Although, after eating and sex, walking is Paris’s preferred activity, it is never practiced on Christmas Eve. The hostility to being on foot on December 24 is reflected in the national rejection of Father Christmas. Traditionally, it’s not Père Noël but the baby Jesus who distributes gifts, and he doesn’t need to trudge around as I was about to do, in parka, gloves, fur hat, and insulated boots.

  Outside, the temperature hovered around zero. Snow had ceased to fall, but an even gray tone in the sky promised more soon. One could almost hear the crackle as slush hardened into ice. Not that the risk of slippery sidewalks concerned us. Any walking that evening would begin at our front door and end a few meters away at the car parked at the curb. After that, we’d be on the freeway, plowed and gritted for the annual migration. Like Thanksgiving in the United States, Christmas was the time for bonding, for renewal, for reconciliation. Nobody stayed in Paris for Christmas.

  For the last month, I’d been planning and preparing for Christmas, and in particular for the family dinner.

  When I married my French wife, Marie-Dominique—known to everyone as Marie-Do—I’d been too bedazzled to quiz her about her family. Only after the wedding and the announcement that she was pregnant did she reveal that they had A Secret. None of them could cook.

  “But . . . that’s impossible!” I protested. “Cooking for the French is like . . .” I searched for a comparison. “. . . the English forming queues. Australians liking the beach. Americans eating popcorn at the movies. It’s . . . genetic.”

  But after a few meals with my new in-laws, there was no avoiding the truth. Academics, artists, writers, and, in my wife’s case, filmmakers, none could make a mug of instant coffee without reading the directions on the jar. They’d faked it with the help of Picard, the gourmet frozen-food chain, and the local traiteurs, who sell ready-made dishes that need only to be reheated. But now the secret was out. And when it became known I could cook, they designated me family chef.

  During the year, this mostly involved fielding queries like “Is ‘a clove of garlic’ the whole bulb or just a segment?” and “What does it mean, ‘separate the eggs’? They’re already separate.” Christmas dinner, however, was a different matter. Traditionally eaten in the house of my mother-in-law, Claudine, in the village of Richebourg, one hundred kilometers west of Paris, it wasn’t so much a meal as a ritual, with the entire clan, sometimes as many as twenty, gathered at the long table. I expressed exasperation at being saddled with this task, but secretly I relished the compliment of being asked. For someone raised in an Australian country town, to cook dinner for the cream of French society in a sixteenth-century chateau represented a fantasy fulfilled.

  The family was already converging on Richebourg as Marie-Do and I got ready to leave. The trunk and backseat of our car overflowed with gifts, cooking equipment, and everything necessary to feed eighteen people—everything but the confiture d’oignons I was stirring on top of the stove.

  “Smells good,” said Marie-Do.

  The apartment had filled with the tart-sweet aroma of a kilo of finely chopped red onions braised with sugar, spices, and red wine vinegar.

  Christmas dinner normally began with oysters, eight dozen of which we’d ordered from Yves Papin of La Tremblade, the best in France and supplier to the president himself. But some guests didn’t like oysters, so we’d made an adjustment. My brother-in-law, Jean-Marie, offered a foie gras, cooked and preserved at his family farm in the Dordogne. Rather than serve it with just the traditional dry rye toast, I’d made confiture d’oignons. Its blend of tart and sweet undercut the fat of the liver, emphasizing its luxurious creaminess.

  “And I used your vinegar,” I said.

  The stoneware vinegar bottle was Marie-Do’s sole culinary contribution to the house. Into it, she emptied the few trickles of red wine left after a dinner party. Inside, the mère, or mother, a gel-like colony of bacteria, transformed it into an aromatic vinegar. This bottle, with the mère already inside, came to Paris in 1959 with Aline, the housekeeper hired to cook for Marie-Do, her young sister, and their widowed mother. Before that, who knew? Perhaps it had provided vinaigrette for a salad eaten by Napoleon. Julius Caesar’s cook might have used it to make that Roman favorite In Ovis Apalis, mixing vinegar, honey, and pine nuts as a sauce for hard-boiled eggs. As long as you kept it fed, the mère was immortal.

  I let the confiture cool and packed it into two large jars. They exactly filled the last of the carryalls. Unlike other Christmases, which often verged on panic, this one, I’d vowed, would be properly organized.

  We lowered the central heating, switched on the answering machine, and shut off our computers. We made sure that Scotty, our cat, had food and water, that his litter tray was clean, and that, if the mood took him, he could slip onto the balcony to see if snow really was as nasty as he remembered. Staring crossly through the glass at the white-blanketed terrace, he reminded me of
the cat in a novel by science fiction writer Robert Heinlein. Called Petronius Arbiter, he prowls from door to door, looking for the one he remembers from August that opens onto a warm and snow-less landscape—the door into summer.

  We stepped out onto the landing. Marie-Do put her key into the door.

  It wouldn’t turn.

  She jiggled it.

  The lock still refused to budge. And the key refused to come out, no matter how hard she tugged.

  We went back inside and tried from the other side.

  Solid.

  It was a good lock. Heavy metal, with a deadbolt, and two bars that slid into slots in the floor and the door frame. In fact, it was too good. Because of a security feature, if we closed the door with the key inside, we wouldn’t be able to open it again. We couldn’t leave, but couldn’t stay either.

  “If you want to see God laugh,” they say, “tell him your plans.”

  Chapter 3

  What a Man’s Got to Do

  To this day, someone will say “Hemingway didn’t seem to have much of an education.” By this, I suppose, the academic critic means Ernest hadn’t taken his own formal academic drill. But as the philosophers themselves are aware, the artist kind of knowing, call it intuition if you will, could yield a different kind of knowledge, beyond rational speculation.

  MORLEY CALLAGHAN, That Summer in Paris

  You can blame Hemingway for what happened next.